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Angkor Thom

Posted over 2 years ago
The Kettles Chronicles part oneAngkor Thom was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire, established in the late twelfth century by King Jayavarman VII. It is otherwise remembered as the site where Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft and her posse went to retrieve the first piece of the Triangle of Light."You ought to hear my long snake moan.You ought to see me from my throne."The ancient city is done up (by hand, I might add) in the Bayon style of architecture, evident in the face-towers at each of the four entrances to the city (N-S-E-W) and in the naga-(mythical serpent-)carrying giant figures which accompany each of the towers."I lost my heart under the bridge.""Angkor Thom remained the capital of a kingdom in decline until it was abandoned some time prior to 1609, when an early western visitor wrote of an uninhabited city, 'as fantastic as the Atlantis of Plato' which some thought to have been built by the Roman emperor Trajan."The south gate has become the main entrance to the city for tourists. The gateways themselves would originally have been closed with wooden doors."Let me ride on his grace for a while."The ancient city walls are flanked by a moat (man-made, I was told). "A causeway spans the moat in front of each tower: these have a row of devas (gods) on the left and asuras (demons) on the right, each row holding a naga in the attitude of a tug-of-war.""Recently, it has been noticed that on one of the ruins, there appears to be a dinosaur carved into the wall. This is most intriging considering the site is centuries old and that the dinosaur carving is surrounded by animals of today, such as elephants, snakes, horses and various other creatures.""My love will stay 'til the river bed run dry.And my love lasts long as the sunshine blue sky."::. lyrics by P J Harvey off the album To Bring You My Love::. quoted and additional information from the Wikipedia entry on Angkor Thom

Comments (7)

  1. poebegone says Temple robbers have beheaded 75% of the guardian statues; they do not distinguish between gods and demons. The headless guardians were testament to what Khmers in those times did in the name of their deities and king, of religion and monarchy. It was painful to think about those people's hard labor, human machines mass-producing massive sculptures, which have survived nine centuries and counting. What tourists loosely refer to as the Angkor Thom site are the ruins at the south gate. What's left of the ancient city are those ruins at the four entrance gates, some ten named tourist sites within (all temples), and the moat, all intermingling now with grass and trees, and uniformed street sweepers and souvenir vendors. I came to understand that the south gate is the tourists' entrance because it's the one in the best condition. I hope this means the other three entrances are being restored because it's only a matter of time when the south gate becomes equally worn and torn due to countless tourist visits daily. Angkor Thom is a 30-minute drive from the town proper of Siem Reap. On the road, I kept thinking it seemed like the next best thing to teleporting. One minute I was having the hotel breakfast buffet by the pool next to a gym, a half-hour later I was at a Buddhist site of worship from the late 1200s. Not bad for the first ancient temple I've ever visited in Cambodia.
    Permalink posted 07/07/2007
  2. B42 says I tried bringing this up on Google Earth but was not able to get in close enough to see the sights. Great post, I so wanna be a "tourist" again sometime soon. Ichabod Crane's got nothing on the story of these poor chaps. Mog On!
    Permalink posted 07/08/2007
  3. kristiana says "next best thing to teleporting", yeah! No kidding eh? Glad to hear you got to see some of the sights this time. Great pick, PJ! Absolutely amazing and overwhelming huh? Did you find it "felt sacred"? Can't wait for the next installments.
    Permalink posted 07/08/2007
  4. poebegone says kris, i am all but gagging myself to hold off raving about Ta Prohm, which was the fourth Angkor site i visited. overwhelming, as you say, and posting about it per visited site is the least insane way for me. sshhh...! i shall buzz you once i manage to get that Ta Prohm post out. 3) sacred, it was! fuck, it inspired awe and epiphanies out of me. (okay, and blisters, too.) B42, maybe it's because my laptop can hardly handle Google Earth that i haven't stopped being a tourist, huh? (8 these poor Ichabod Crane's were peddled in the marketplace for desperate bucks. R.I. has Providence, and i can tell you're an explorer at heart, must set out to the mysterious beyond!
    Permalink posted 07/08/2007
  5. kristiana says Yes, do! I don't want to miss out on that one! I have been nowhere yet that compared to how Angkor Wat felt. And the simultaneous feeling of our tiny insignificance/impermanence as the jungle reclaims the area, but also the lasting monument to the beauty humankind can create with their bare hands, as you pointed out. Different part of the world, but same sentiment! And the women all were beautiful And the men stood straight and strong They offered life in sacrifice So that others could go on. Hate was just a legend And war was never known The people worked together And they lifted many stones. They carried them to the flatlands And they died along the way But they built up with their bare hands What we still cant do today.
    Permalink posted 07/08/2007
  6. B42 says There are so many worthwhile places to explore, 'tis a wonderous world :) "sacred, it was! fuck, it inspired awe and epiphanies out of me." - you're beginning to sound a bit like Obiwan, maybe it's all that wisdom gained from traveling soaking in ;)
    Permalink posted 07/08/2007
  7. poebegone says B42: O my. As long as I haven't reached Yoda level, get nervous I suppose I got no reason to. 3) Kris: Good thinking, that song. I was just having a Mogversation with B42 about art being a product of megalomania. What a killer...!
    Permalink posted 07/09/2007

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