THE MUSIC BLOGGING HIVE MIND

tonight in bilbao, april, ghosts of dirt roads

Posted about 1 year ago
infinite thanks to mogtiplier amber, who hooked me up with April and the other beautiful discs by Sun Kil Moon, the band of my favoritest guy, Mark Kozelek.Untitled 3 : Sun Kil Moon : April - Bonus Disc : 3:03i toddle out of the Toyota Corolla and into the middle of my umpteenth nowhere in Cambodia. my job takes me places, as promised, such as this: Kampong Speu - an hour and a half by land from the capital - area: 7,017 sqkm - inhabitants: 598,882 as of 1998 - pop. density: 85.3 inh./sqkm. i turn to every cardinal direction to see nothing; an endless horizon, at best.i am here to shoot babies. (rather, someone does the shooting on my behalf.) my eyes can see as far as all of three houses but the crowd that gathers 'round appears to exceed six families. each time i turn my head, a different mother is cradling a different baby that i give up counting eventually.the ubiquity of flies and cow dung does little to dissuade me from the exercise of constant hydration. i refuse to share my two litres of bottled water besides, whereas i fail to find my appetite all day. i do not know what is worse: that too few people live here or that people live here. i blame the dry heat for my foul mood.the few minutes' drive to the health clinic gives me just enough time to consider that there is such a clinic in every province in Cambodia. that is a good thing, i think to myself until i come face to face with one: it is ghostly, beaten, locked.the health clinic, a good walking distance from any cluster of life, offers too little improvement from the pseudo-doctor who is already present in each given neighborhood. no one ever comes, i am told, except when giving birth. outside i find a curious-looking brick structure tapering up to the sky. none of the city crew knows what it is. i offer no conclusions and will only say that it looks like a furnace.

Comments (21)

  1. poebegone says Tonight In Bilbao : Sun Kil Moon : April : 9:28 "I left Bilbao, went to Madrid, to Barcelona, to Pamplona where every ghost runs in me now, haunting me."
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  2. poebegone says "I left Milan, and went to Rome and carried her aroma and all the kindness she'd ever shown was only a dream."
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  3. jnif says Nice to see you mogging, Poe. I love your posts about Cambodia. I have some very similar pictures of the middle of nowhere. And, of course, I share your love for anything Mark Kozelek. April is lovely. Thanks for sharing. :j
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  4. ivylander says Your pictures are evocative, your story rather harrowing. I'm thinking back to the two weeks I spent driving - being driven, actually, because only hopeful suicides would do it themselves - from one end of Java to the other. The landscpe was almost unbearably beautiful - you literally had to turn your head away at times because it got to be too much - and the poverty just unbearable. The song is a perfect counterpoint: somehow lush and barren at the same time....
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  5. amber says Ilay, your words and your pictures humble me with their beauty. You are so immensely talented. The songs posted were perfect to accompany your images, both mentally painted and provided through your lens. Thank you. I am thrilled to have been the conduit for the soundtrack. I think I got more out of it than you could imagine.
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  6. Bartleby says I really like the way you bring this little middle of nowhere into life. I can almost picture myself puzzling at the sight of "curious-looking brick structure tapering up to the sky." Your photos also contribute to the questioning... Lovely thoughts and lovely posts. Thanks Poe
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  7. Marigold says wonderfully post Ilay. it was insightful being there through your lens.
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  8. Cody B says the layout of the post is beautiful..i don't have enough words to describe the content, but its beauty is something far beyond that of the layout. thank you.
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  9. leftoverking says beautiful pictures poe. i especially like the pottery and the blue shutters. nice. :)
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  10. scotfree says maybe the mystery furnace is where they sterilize the surgical instruments for the ladies in labor? your pictures are such a beautiful contrast to the urban landscape that bores my eyes daily. "i do not know what is worse: that too few people live here or that people live here." that's classic. we have pig farms 'round here that give the same effervesence. I'm getting frightened to play your musical selections - everytime they're a "must" finally, the trailer attached to the motorcycle is something we may see much more of...
    Permalink posted 06/07/2008
  11. Zeroskilz says Beautiful and depressing post. Amber hooked me on Sun Kill Moon's Tiny Cities album, for which I am eternally grateful. Thanks for sharing your story and the pics.
    Permalink posted 06/08/2008
  12. FluxCapacitor says I enjoy your "touring" posts, Ilay. Could almost smell the cow dung in this one. Ta!
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  13. poebegone says 'ey j! what's up on your side of the universe? i'd bet you have similar pictures as most of Cambodia is the middle of nowhere. ;D i have infinite love for Mark Kozelek and that is a whole lot you and i can share. ivylander, i suppose "harrowing" is why i took a while to return to this post. you fleetingly transported me to your Java with my own understanding of one being driven lest a hopeful suicide. beauty that gets to be too much - i know i will ponder that all night. amber dear, fortunately for me, a Sun Kil Moon junkie who owns no Sun Kil Moon - i don't know how!, you came to the rescue. i am more thrilled, i haven't listened to anything else. i hope the mental painting sufficed. (8 michael, i hesitated to reveal what i really think that structure is and turn the post into a morbid folk tale, and are they not always? bringing the middle of nowhere into life - i can count on you for poetry, as always.
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  14. poebegone says mike, does this mean you're back? or does that avatar mean you're back with a vengeance? ;p cody, after myself, you are the first mogger to care about the layout of my posts. i think you've just made me giddy. jeff, i guessed you'd like the blue shutters. those jars are where they store their water, so i hid my bottled water. scott, make no mistake, i love urban landscapes, too. i have heaps of images of fastfoods and shopping malls. ;d now i will never want to be labelled as effervescent again. what was that about the motorcycle trailer? "I'm getting frightened to play your musical selections" - hah. wait 'til halloween.
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  15. poebegone says mike, Sun Kil Moon makes music that is beautiful and depressing. and hooray to amber. hey, does that mean you like Red House Painters as well? (admittedly, they were juvenile then, but i love RHP.) colin, my touring has nothing on your jetsetting. (+ when i first came, i thought i smelled something that reminded me of summers i had spent in an uncle's huge house in the province, and then i realized it was cow dung.
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  16. Anna says When beauty and tragedy walk hand in hand, they both become even more powerful, don't they? Sigh. I have thought about the peculiarity of clinics and hospitals in the past; they host the beginning and end of life in the same space. The {I assume} crematorium furnace was like a slap to my face. But it was one needed. Thank you for taking us with you, poe.
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  17. Zeroskilz says I haven't given RHP the listen that they need to really make a decision. I've also not really given any other SKM albums an appropriate listen. I can say that I do love Tiny Cities thoroughly. Some day I will catch up on music (yeah right). Until then, I will trip and stumble across the good stuff I've missed through beautiful posts like this. :)
    Permalink posted 06/09/2008
  18. HelenMarie says Captivating post Ilay. Bitter sweet.
    Permalink posted 06/11/2008
  19. Augusts1 says What an amazing post, glad I came back to it. The email notif got lost in the sea of email. So what exactly does your new job entail ilay? I'm fascinated. And although I'm not a fan of Sun Kil Moon, I do like that first song.
    Permalink posted 06/11/2008
  20. poebegone says

    anna, the brave one. i would've said "anna, the bold one" but i have a feeling it might stick. ;d it is indeed, i suspect like you, a crematorium for babies. the saddest thing. i've had similar thoughts on hospitals, especially at war-time, the stuff of hauntings.

    mike, RHP music is Mark Kozelek in his youth as much as SKM is him but older and wiser. if i listened to RHP now, they may not have become my favorite band ever, but back then they were the most relevant to me, so that stands. (:

    helen, you're the one who needs captivating. where have you gone to and are you back?!?

    aug, yeah, same here, a lot of notifs getting lost in the sea of email, including some of your awesome posts. as for that question, i will have to mogmail you about it one of these coming days. ;D

    Permalink posted 06/13/2008
  21. Augusts1 says

    Ok, I'll be waiting with baited breath ilay, hehe.

    Permalink posted 06/14/2008

Comment on this Post

Login using email and password below.

Forgot Password?

Don't have an account?
Join MOG. It's Free!

© 2006-2009 Mog Inc. All Rights Reserved

Join MOG Today. It's Free.

We hate spam even more than you do. We will NOT sell your email address.

Pick a good one! Screen name can't be changed.

Must be at least six characters.

For Musicians
Cancel

Already A Mogger?