Jazz / A Last Summer in Lyon / Hot Club de Lyon, France

(A video link can be found at the end of this post.)

There's a club located on a tiny downtown street in Lyon. Lined with sex shops, a theatre, restaurants and stores, this tiny 'rue' is also home to an infamous jazz club, the Hot Club de Lyon.

The entrance is ambiguous enough, you travel through a corridor at street level, pass through a typical hallway, then wind your way to a big red leather door - mind you one that reeks of pretension and privacy. However, the minute you open the gateway to the stony steps leading into the underground cave that thought disappears. You're greeted by blissful smokers congregating in the corner, the true entrance being to your right inviting you with a picture board filled with jazz legends who have been here before, my favourite being the Chet Baker photograph nestled in the corner. I think to myself each time that I enter, where I stand is where these legends have stood before. Beyond, red light shadows the silhouettes of every sort of person, this is not the sort of place aiming for only an exclusive elite clientèle. A small bar fills the dancing ears, the stage set in a cosy stone sphere permeated by the music, red leather banquettes and an attentive audience.

My first introduction to the jazz club is thanks to my good friend Halima. I met her some years ago in transit in a long queue at the airport for a flight to Dublin. Although both of us lived in Lyon, we were forced to navigate our meetings between both of our frequent travels and personal obligations. This year she had fully booked her summer abroad so fortunately we were able to spend some time together prior to her departure, even more than all our common years combined. One of those nights we wandered into the jazz club on a Friday evening, we began sipping wine in the third row watching a renown bass player from America. I happily mingled with the crowd and the musicians, was even offered free champagne by a kind older gentlemen and chatted extensively with the American bass player who seem comforted by my English amongst the local crowd. I stayed till closing in a haze of merriment, intoxicated by the energy and the authenticity of this little club. That night I knew I found a place that felt like home and had a sudden realisation that when you are about to leave a place, all the wonderful things return and remind you why you were there in the first place.

That week, I returned every single night to the cave accompanied by my new best friend. Alex plays both double bass and saxophone while working as a sound designer, he also works most nights at the club. We immediately felt a mutual bond and had the same passion for music, life and food. He would prepare lavish meals for my behalf every night after closing hours and we would plan the next day a new adventure with the same enthusiasm and energy. We both felt at ease in eachother's company and the city seemed to revive itself as we spent nearly every day together till the end of my stay. It's funny to think our paths could've crossed many times through mutual friends but it was meant to be that it was this moment we met, a perfect meeting where I had a wonderful new best friend and also a new perspective of Lyon.

In order to express my gratitude and love for the Hot Club de Lyon and it's members, my new best friend and one of the best summers I have ever had, I would like to share some moments of the time I spent there. A memorable month and a half before leaving Lyon.

I am passionate about these people and their stories, as much as they are passionate about this club and it's family, their dedication unrivaled from what I have seen so far in a city I have known for 9 years.

Alex gave me an opportunity to live the genuine Hot Club experience, often inviting me to a late night impromptu jam session or a friendly get together. It took so long to find this special place, but it was well worth the wait, for both the discovery of the club and meeting him. His possesive cat adopted me. Stephane wore a Linux T-shirt the first time I met him. It was love at first sight! A gentle man with an anarchist streak underneath his small frame. All hail THE King Geek! Clare, a real natural beauty with a silky voice. She sang one evening alongside her boyfriend Olivier, a pianist. I adore this lady, they are a great couple and also very talented. Halima, thank you for everything. Hot Club members and friends. Many thanks for the hospitality and allowing me to be included in the fun. Musicians. Too many to introduce but I was lucky to see many of them perform as well as discovering their unique personalities and drink of choice.

Lastly, I was treated to an evening with 8 diverse musicians who played till early morning, including a trumpet, trombones, a tuba (ok, a sousa bass), drums, electric guitar, bass guitar, piano and saxophone. I was the privileged audience of one. The best finale for my last night in Lyon. We never did finish all those beers.

Here are some other moments...

Click here for more photos.

Click here for a video of my last night.

Until next time...More to come from Dublin, Montreal & Lausanne.